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Introduction to Nearshore Hydrodynamics

https://doi.org/10.1142/5740
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Observation and Modelling of Infragravity Waves at a Large Meso-Macro Tidal Inlet and Lagoon
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Initial Wave Height and Total Energy of Landslide-Generated Tsunamis from Translatory Wave Theory
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10.3 Waves
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Longshore Currents
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Science background
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Experimental investigation of flow and sediment transport on an equilibrium beach formed by surging breaker
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A Boussinesq-type wave driver for a morphodynamical model to predict short-term morphology
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A new breaking wave height direct estimator from video imagery
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Three-dimensional interaction of waves and porous coastal structures
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Three-dimensional interaction of waves and porous coastal structures
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An analytic solution for combined wave diffraction and refraction around a vertical cylinder with idealized scour pit
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Radiation stress and low-frequency energy balance within the surf zone: A numerical approach
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Realistic wave generation and active wave absorption for Navier–Stokes models
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Depth-induced wave breaking in a non-hydrostatic, near-shore wave model
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Inclusion of additional energy dissipation due to plunging breakers in parametric type wave models
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Morphological response of a sandy shoreline to a natural obstacle at Sa Mesa Longa Beach, Italy
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Numerical investigation of wave-induced flow in mound–channel wetland systems
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Boundary layer dynamics in the swash zone under large-scale laboratory conditions
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Wave runup and overwash on a prototype-scale sand barrier
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A process based shape equation for a static equilibrium beach planform
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The influence of wave acceleration and volume on the swash flow driven by breaking waves of elevation
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A high-performance three-dimensional lattice Boltzmann solver for water waves with free surface capturing
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Analysis of the mechanics of breaker bar generation in cross-shore beach profiles based on numerical modelling
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An empirical model for velocity in rough turbulent oscillatory boundary layers
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Hydrodynamics of an idealized reef-lagoon-channel coastal system: A three-dimensional CFD simulation
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Wave-driven current and vortex patterns at an open beach: Insights from phase-resolving numerical computations and Lagrangian measurements
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Numerical investigation of seasonal wind-wave responses to severe seagrass decline in a coastal lagoon
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A phase-resolved, depth-averaged non-hydrostatic numerical model for cross-shore wave propagation
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Hydrodynamics and sediment-transport in the nearshore of Poverty Bay, New Zealand: Observations of nearshore sediment segregation and oceanic storms
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Storm and fair-weather driven sediment-transport within Poverty Bay, New Zealand, evaluated using coupled numerical models
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A nonlinear perturbation study of a shoreface nourishment on a multiply barred beach
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Wave- and current-dominated combined orthogonal flows over fixed rough beds
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The analytical solutions of long waves over geometries with linear and nonlinear variations in the form of power-law nonlinearities with solid inclined wall
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Sediment transport on dissipative, intermediate and reflective beaches
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Wave dissipation across a Rhizophora mangrove patch on a Colombian Caribbean Island: An experimental approach
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Hydrodynamic forcing on salt-marsh development: Distinguishing the relative importance of waves and tidal flows
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A top-mounted, chain-driven, bidirectional point absorber type wave energy convertor
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Wave energy potential along the Death Coast (Spain)
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Run-up flow of a collapsing bore over a beach
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Impact of dam operations on bottom sediment and macrobenthic community in the Kurobe Coast over a quarter century
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Backwards wave breaking by flow separation vortices under solitary waves
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Analysis of velocity fluctuations and their intermittency properties in the surf zone using empirical mode decomposition
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Sediment transport processes and morphodynamics on a reflective beach under storm and non-storm conditions
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Sediment concentration and vertical mixing under breaking waves
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Equilibrium shoreface profiles: A sediment transport approach
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Model-based estimation of seasonal transport of macro-plastics in a marine protected area
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Mixing parameterization: Impacts on rip currents and wave set-up
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Nature and magnitude of wave loadings at Seawave Slot-cone Generators
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Conservation of energy for non-dissipative water waves
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Experimental and numerical modelling of wave forces on coastal bridge superstructures with box girders, Part I: Regular waves
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Accuracy of depth-integrated nonhydrostatic wave models
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Description of hydro/meteo data in ship manoeuvring simulators: A survey on the state of the art
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Study on the wave-driven current around the surf zone over fringing reefs
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Analytical formula for estimation of surface wave power with application in the coastal ocean of Thailand
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Experimental study of bound triad interactions across a dissipative surf zone under different wave breaking conditions
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Numerical study of cross-shore variations of bound super-harmonics over a single sandbar system
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A study of the non-linear properties and wave generation of the multi-layer non-hydrostatic wave model SWASH
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Frictional wave dissipation in macro-roughness environments: A comparison of bottom stress and bulk canopy drag models
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A new wave breakpoint detection method and wave breaking parameters direct estimator based on spatial wave-by-wave analysis
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Hydromorphological management of a lengthy coastal strip in the presence of natural coral reefs flocs in the red sea
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Comparing a quasi-3D to a full 3D nearshore circulation model: SHORECIRC and ROMS
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Improved efficiency of a non-hydrostatic, unstructured grid, finite volume model
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Energy balance, wave shoaling and group celerity in Boussinesq-type wave propagation models
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Optimal dispersion with minimized Poisson equations for non-hydrostatic free surface flows
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An efficient method to calculate depth-integrated, phase-averaged momentum balances in non-hydrostatic models
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Smoothed Particle Hydrodynamics simulations of reef surf zone processes driven by plunging irregular waves
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Wave breaking in Boussinesq models for undular bores
inferred← citeshttps://doi.org/10.1016/j.renene.2009.10.019openalex-snapshot
Wave energy resource in the Estaca de Bares area (Spain)
inferred← citeshttps://doi.org/10.1016/j.renene.2009.11.001openalex-snapshot
National-scale wave energy resource assessment for Australia
inferred← citeshttps://doi.org/10.1016/j.rsma.2024.103732openalex-snapshot
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The effects of droplet size distribution and wave characteristics on the vertical dispersion of spilled oil due to regular non-breaking waves
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Bottom friction effects on linear wave propagation
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Wavelet Galerkin scheme for solving nonlinear dispersive shallow water waves: Application in bore propagation and breaking
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Measurement and Analysis of Waves in Estuarine and Coastal Waters
inferred← citeshttps://doi.org/10.1017/cbo9780511619588.014openalex-snapshot
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inferred← citeshttps://doi.org/10.1017/cft.2022.2openalex-snapshot
Morphodynamics of wave-dominated beaches
inferred← citeshttps://doi.org/10.1017/cft.2022.2.pr1openalex-snapshot
Author comment: Morphodynamics of wave-dominated beaches — R0/PR1
inferred← citeshttps://doi.org/10.1017/cft.2022.2.pr10openalex-snapshot
Decision: Morphodynamics of wave-dominated beaches — R1/PR10
inferred← citeshttps://doi.org/10.1017/cft.2022.2.pr11openalex-snapshot
Author comment: Morphodynamics of wave-dominated beaches — R2/PR11
inferred← citeshttps://doi.org/10.1017/cft.2022.2.pr12openalex-snapshot
Recommendation: Morphodynamics of wave-dominated beaches — R2/PR12
inferred← citeshttps://doi.org/10.1017/cft.2022.2.pr13openalex-snapshot
Decision: Morphodynamics of wave-dominated beaches — R2/PR13
inferred← citeshttps://doi.org/10.1017/cft.2022.2.pr2openalex-snapshot
Review: Morphodynamics of wave-dominated beaches — R0/PR2
inferred← citeshttps://doi.org/10.1017/cft.2022.2.pr3openalex-snapshot
Review: Morphodynamics of wave-dominated beaches — R0/PR3
inferred← citeshttps://doi.org/10.1017/cft.2022.2.pr4openalex-snapshot
Recommendation: Morphodynamics of wave-dominated beaches — R0/PR4
inferred← citeshttps://doi.org/10.1017/cft.2022.2.pr5openalex-snapshot
Decision: Morphodynamics of wave-dominated beaches — R0/PR5
inferred← citeshttps://doi.org/10.1017/cft.2022.2.pr6openalex-snapshot
Author comment: Morphodynamics of wave-dominated beaches — R1/PR6
inferred← citeshttps://doi.org/10.1017/cft.2022.2.pr7openalex-snapshot
Review: Morphodynamics of wave-dominated beaches — R1/PR7
inferred← citeshttps://doi.org/10.1017/cft.2022.2.pr8openalex-snapshot
Review: Morphodynamics of wave-dominated beaches — R1/PR8
inferred← citeshttps://doi.org/10.1017/cft.2022.2.pr9openalex-snapshot
Recommendation: Morphodynamics of wave-dominated beaches — R1/PR9
inferred← citeshttps://doi.org/10.1017/cft.2023.21openalex-snapshot
On the formation of coastal rogue waves in water of variable depth
inferred← citeshttps://doi.org/10.1017/cft.2023.21.pr1openalex-snapshot
Author comment: On the formation of coastal rogue waves in water of variable depth — R0/PR1
inferred← citeshttps://doi.org/10.1017/cft.2023.21.pr10openalex-snapshot
Decision: On the formation of coastal rogue waves in water of variable depth — R1/PR10
inferred← citeshttps://doi.org/10.1017/cft.2023.21.pr2openalex-snapshot
Review: On the formation of coastal rogue waves in water of variable depth — R0/PR2
inferred← citeshttps://doi.org/10.1017/cft.2023.21.pr3openalex-snapshot
Review: On the formation of coastal rogue waves in water of variable depth — R0/PR3
inferred← citeshttps://doi.org/10.1017/cft.2023.21.pr4openalex-snapshot
Recommendation: On the formation of coastal rogue waves in water of variable depth — R0/PR4
inferred← citeshttps://doi.org/10.1017/cft.2023.21.pr5openalex-snapshot
Decision: On the formation of coastal rogue waves in water of variable depth — R0/PR5
inferred← citeshttps://doi.org/10.1017/cft.2023.21.pr6openalex-snapshot
Author comment: On the formation of coastal rogue waves in water of variable depth — R1/PR6
inferred← citeshttps://doi.org/10.1017/cft.2023.21.pr7openalex-snapshot
Review: On the formation of coastal rogue waves in water of variable depth — R1/PR7
inferred← citeshttps://doi.org/10.1017/cft.2023.21.pr8openalex-snapshot
Review: On the formation of coastal rogue waves in water of variable depth — R1/PR8
inferred← citeshttps://doi.org/10.1017/cft.2023.21.pr9openalex-snapshot
Recommendation: On the formation of coastal rogue waves in water of variable depth — R1/PR9
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Turbulence structure and interaction with steep breaking waves
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Modeling of surf zone processes on a natural beach using Reynolds‐Averaged Navier‐Stokes equations
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Stabilizing effect of random waves on rip currents
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Remote sensing of wave roller lengths in the laboratory
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Development of crescentic bars for a periodically perturbed initial bathymetry
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Microseisms and hum from ocean surface gravity waves
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Quantifying Bore‐Bore Capture on Natural Beaches
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Do Beach Profiles Under Nonbreaking Waves Minimize Energy Dissipation?
inferred← citeshttps://doi.org/10.1029/2020jc016811openalex-snapshot
A Numerical Study of Wave‐Driven Mean Flows and Setup Dynamics at a Coral Reef‐Lagoon System
inferred← citeshttps://doi.org/10.1029/2021gl095722openalex-snapshot
Lagrangian Measurements of Orbital Velocities in the Surf Zone
inferred← citeshttps://doi.org/10.1029/2022jc018437openalex-snapshot
Surface Wave and Roller Dissipation Observed With Shore‐Based Doppler Marine Radar
inferred← citeshttps://doi.org/10.1029/2022jc018998openalex-snapshot
Near‐Bed Sediment Transport Processes During Onshore Bar Migration in Large‐Scale Experiments: Comparison With Offshore Bar Migration
inferred← citeshttps://doi.org/10.1029/2024jc021003openalex-snapshot
Investigations on Bore Capture Modulation on a Macrotidal Beach
inferred← citeshttps://doi.org/10.1029/2025gl119305openalex-snapshot
Radar Estimates of Surfzone Dissipation Drive a Morphological Evolution Model
inferred← citeshttps://doi.org/10.1029/2025jc022422openalex-snapshot
Surfing Transport of Buoyant Objects Observed in the Nearshore
inferred← citeshttps://doi.org/10.1038/s41467-024-50929-2openalex-snapshot
Unveiling the global influence of tropical cyclones on extreme waves approaching coastal areas
inferred← citeshttps://doi.org/10.1038/s41598-026-45638-3openalex-snapshot
Multi-site assessment of microtidal wave-dominated active beach state and morpho-sedimentary parameters using optical satellite imagery
inferred← citeshttps://doi.org/10.1061/(asce)0733-950x(2009)135:2(52)openalex-snapshot
Storm-Wave Flow through Tidal Inlets and Its Influence on Bay Flooding
inferred← citeshttps://doi.org/10.1061/(asce)em.1943-7889.0001087openalex-snapshot
Large Eddy Simulation of Unidirectional and Wave Flows through Vegetation
inferred← citeshttps://doi.org/10.1061/(asce)ww.1943-5460.0000096openalex-snapshot
Numerical Modeling of Breaking Waves and Cross-Shore Currents on Barred Beaches
inferred← citeshttps://doi.org/10.1061/(asce)ww.1943-5460.0000148openalex-snapshot
Experimental Study on the Scour around a Monopile in Breaking Waves
inferred← citeshttps://doi.org/10.1061/(asce)ww.1943-5460.0000196openalex-snapshot
Advective Diffusion of Contaminants in the Surf Zone
inferred← citeshttps://doi.org/10.1061/(asce)ww.1943-5460.0000219openalex-snapshot
Vertical Variability of Undertow and Longshore Currents outside the Surf Zone
inferred← citeshttps://doi.org/10.1061/(asce)ww.1943-5460.0000305openalex-snapshot
Effect of Asymmetric Directional Spreading on the Total Radiation Stress
inferred← citeshttps://doi.org/10.1061/(asce)ww.1943-5460.0000415openalex-snapshot
Attenuation of Nonlinear Waves by Rigid Vegetation: Comparison of Different Wave Theories
inferred← citeshttps://doi.org/10.1061/(asce)ww.1943-5460.0000489openalex-snapshot
Semianalytical Model of Depth-Integrated Vegetal Drag Force Based on Stokes Second-Order Wave Theory
inferred← citeshttps://doi.org/10.1061/(asce)ww.1943-5460.0000643openalex-snapshot
Calculation Model for Multiple Breaking Waves and Wave-Induced Currents on Very Gentle Beaches
inferred← citeshttps://doi.org/10.1061/(asce)ww.1943-5460.0000644openalex-snapshot
Cross-Shore Sediment Transport for Modeling Long-Term Shoreline Evolution
inferred← citeshttps://doi.org/10.1063/1.4872160openalex-snapshot
Formulation of the undertow using linear wave theory
inferred← citeshttps://doi.org/10.1063/5.0273222openalex-snapshot
Current–wave interaction with large-volume structures
inferred← citeshttps://doi.org/10.1080/00221686.2019.1623928openalex-snapshot
Wave-induced set-up over barrier reefs under the effect of tidal current
inferred← citeshttps://doi.org/10.1080/05785634.2017.1418796openalex-snapshot
A study of wave reflection based on the maximum wave momentum flux approach
inferred← citeshttps://doi.org/10.1080/19942060.2011.11015384openalex-snapshot
Numerical Computation of the Nearshore Current Considering Wave-Current Interactions at Gangjeong Coastal Area, Jeju Island, Korea
inferred← citeshttps://doi.org/10.1080/21664250.2019.1579461openalex-snapshot
Laboratory investigation of the breaking wave characteristics over a barrier reef under the effect of current
inferred← citeshttps://doi.org/10.1080/21664250.2025.2469957openalex-snapshot
Improving accuracy of image-based depth inversion with an adaptive window optimization
inferred← citeshttps://doi.org/10.1080/23311916.2022.2124636openalex-snapshot
On the placement of a wave manipulator suitable for energy harnessing in the Nearshore
inferred← citeshttps://doi.org/10.1088/1755-1315/1166/1/012027openalex-snapshot
Oceanographic survey on current due to breaking wave for energy generations: a case study of Pacitan bay, East Java, Indonesia
inferred← citeshttps://doi.org/10.1109/lgrs.2010.2082491openalex-snapshot
The Influence of the Inverted Sea Wave Theories on the Derivation of Coastal Bathymetry
inferred← citeshttps://doi.org/10.1109/tgrs.2009.2020157openalex-snapshot
Bathymetry Estimation From Single-Frame Images of Nearshore Waves
inferred← citeshttps://doi.org/10.1109/tgrs.2010.2095864openalex-snapshot
Optical and Microwave Detection of Wave Breaking in the Surf Zone
inferred← citeshttps://doi.org/10.1111/j.1440-1835.2010.00587.xopenalex-snapshot
Species richness of marine macrophytes is correlated to a wave exposure gradient
inferred← citeshttps://doi.org/10.1115/omae2022-79869openalex-snapshot
Performance Modelling of Flap-Type Wave Energy Converter Array: Flaps With Various Dynamic Characteristics
inferred← citeshttps://doi.org/10.1140/epjp/i2016-16069-7openalex-snapshot
Stokes waves revisited: Exact solutions in the asymptotic limit
inferred← citeshttps://doi.org/10.1142/s2529807025500010openalex-snapshot
Quantifying Statistical Characteristics of Breaking Waves in an Idealized Fringing Reef Environment: Experiment and Nonhydrostatic XBeach Simulation
inferred← citeshttps://doi.org/10.1146/annurev-marine-032221-090215openalex-snapshot
Modeling the Morphodynamics of Coastal Responses to Extreme Events: What Shape Are We In?
inferred← citeshttps://doi.org/10.1155/2015/184147openalex-snapshot
Asymptotic Formulas for the Reflection/Transmission of Long Water Waves Propagating in a Tapered and Slender Harbor
inferred← citeshttps://doi.org/10.1175/jpo-d-13-046.1openalex-snapshot
The Evolution of Inhomogeneous Wave Statistics through a Variable Medium
inferred← citeshttps://doi.org/10.1175/jpo-d-15-0067.1openalex-snapshot
Dynamics of Wave Setup over a Steeply Sloping Fringing Reef
inferred← citeshttps://doi.org/10.1175/jtech-d-14-00215.1openalex-snapshot
Radar Remote Sensing Estimates of Waves and Wave Forcing at a Tidal Inlet
inferred← citeshttps://doi.org/10.12681/mms.535openalex-snapshot
Spatial models to support the management of coastal marine ecosystems: a short review of the best practices in Liguria, Italy
inferred← citeshttps://doi.org/10.1371/journal.pone.0158094openalex-snapshot
The Power of Three: Coral Reefs, Seagrasses and Mangroves Protect Coastal Regions and Increase Their Resilience
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